![]() Front hub motor can throw one if rider powers through ice, slick rock, wet wood, muddy steel plates, or other low traction situations. I then added a front hub motor, which you also can't buy installed. Exception, my yuba bodaboda came unpowered with 24 speed sprockets, triple front crank, which you can't buy pre-built. You probably can't build a bike cheaper than you can buy one now. Don't buy a direct drive hub motor for anything but flat level fast city riding. ![]() Hub motors do need cover screws tightened occasionally. Try swapping a defective mid drive that fast. Took 2 afternoons to swap drives, 1 building a new mount for the controller. That motor wore out in 4500 miles, now I have $730 Mac12. I added $221 in front hub motor & $630 battery, $30 aluminum & screws. That bike cost $1500 with 2 panniers, front basket, 2 leg stand, free freight. I've adjusted the SRAM on my yubabike once in 6000 miles. Cheap shifters & cables, like the shimano & sun 7 speeds, require frequent adjustment. Stupid design for kids that ride 200 miles in the life of the bike. I had a 7 speed shimano rear come unscrewed and drop the balls, making me walk. I've broken the axle of a 6 speed shimano rear when I weighed 190. The brand you chose has >30 complaints of loose spokes on known problems thread. Not a problem in the midwest I cover 77 hills in 27 miles, but short rollers.īikes under $2000 come with kiddie grade shifters, cables, spokes & chains. If your route climbs >1000' in 25 minutes, a geared hub motor will short a winding from the heat. Especially chains thinner than 8 speed rear cluster. Mid drives wear out chains twice to four times as fast as hub drives. They also strand you if something goes wrong in motor or chain. Mid drives are better at climbing rocks or grades >15%. Carried home some abandoned 3/4"x 10' conduit last week. My stretch frame can carry up to 12' long light loads over the aluminum rear rack + hanger from the handlebar. (Mac12) If that motor fails (ebikeling 1300 w one did at 4500 miles) I can ride it home self powered. I carry 80 lb cargo, 94 lb bike+tools, 170 lb me, up 15% grades with a 500 W geared hub motor. Pavement gravel grass mud, I find 2.1" x 26" tires adequate, with knobby tires. Ice, large clearances for fenders & spikes are in order. Fluffy powder snow, beach sand, fat tires >3" are in order. ![]() that determines what size frame & wheels you will best suit you. Your size matters including your weight, length of arms & legs. Heaviest duty steel frame cargo bike with lots of hanger points comes from Surly.Ĭheapest non-powered stretch cargo bike is the envoy mongoose, which see under kits & conversions. Best decision I've made for myself to be active since my injury.Peruse this category for a review of bikes capable of handling weight in addition to the rider. The Mini still takes up more room than any of our other regular MT bikes. It's closer to normal bike size while the Rover is sort of a size up from a good MT bike or almost a small motor dirt bike. Shouldn't have "mini" in the name at all. The Mini 4 is much larger than you think. I'm dialing in my power usage and getting familiar with using lower power settings whenever I can. But the harder the motor is pushed, the faster the battery will drain. The Mini 4 handles the hills just as well and cranking the pedal assist (PAS) up to 5 in 3rd gear as Gordon notes is like butter. But I may still get a Rover down the road if I can talk a buddy into it as well. The Mini 4 travels better for me and I upgraded the tires to 4" with the suspension seat and everything I can do to soften the ride for my 48 yr old, but injured self. I would've kept it if I had a better place to ride it without having to load it up and go somewhere first. I test rode it in my hilly neighborhood and it did fine. Just too big for me and my family's travel space. It's not that the RR6 was too big for me. Click to expand.I just purchased, then exchanged an RR6 for a Mini 4 last month.
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